Le Tissier Designs

Of Larks and Linnets and Flying Fingers

Category: Knitting Photo Tutorials

  • Creating Beautiful Knitting Patterns: Jelly Bean Hat & More

    Creating Beautiful Knitting Patterns: Jelly Bean Hat & More

    It has been very foggy around here for the last few days. It does create a very different world when it surrounds and softens our world. Even as it lifts in the morning it leaves behind traces of singular beauty.

    The Frost this morning was amazing! It gives of the sparkle of diamonds in the sunlight and rims each petal and leaf in lace.

    Today is Wednesday, the middle of the work week and my day off. To rest, grocery shop and work on my knitting, patterns and blog! Maybe to nap as well. LOL!

    Now it is Thursday – yesterday got interrupted by some serious knitting. I am almost ready to place the thumb stitches on my glove onto some waste yarn!

    The Qing Fibre is so pretty.

    My project/sample knitting is going along swimmingly while my pattern is writing lagging behind my knitting. Which is normal because I would rather knit than write! I am much better at the knitting and struggle with the writing. I blog because it does in improve my writing abilities and it fools me into thinking my pattern will write themselves, so far, this has been proven to be a fallacy. LOL!

    As a knitter and as a designer I love texture and colour. Slip stitch knitting offers so many opportunities to combine both! Slip stitch knitting is very similar to Mosaic knitting in that you are never working with more than one colour at a time. The other colour in the round is slipped as you come to it. The Jelly Bean is a good example of slip stitch knitting.

    I have been working on the pattern for the Jelly Bean Hat. It is just about ready for release. The charts are done and the pictures. It just needs some fine tuning.

    The yarn is Juniper Moon Farm Patagonia Organic Merino in 4 colours. But it could just as easily be worked in 2 colours or every stripe of “jellybeans” could be a different colour. Knitters choice 🙂

    My remainder of the samples for the Winter/Spring classes are coming along. I really only have two samples left to knit.

    It is getting bigger. I am just a little ways away from dividing off for the underarms.
    • The Puffy Vest, which will take a while as it basically knitting two vests and then knitting them together. AND…
    • The Beaded and Twisted Cast-on which won’t take very long even though there are two variations on the same theme.

    I am going to use gloves and socks for the samples, Which will keep the sample knitting The beaded and twisted start really could be used on almost any garment or accessory. It’s just that I particularly love it’s effect on smaller items!

    The basic gloves for the class will be sampled with one of the versions of the beaded and twisted cast-on. They were started with a long-tail beaded cast-on. The yarn for the glove body is Qing Fibre Sock in the Blackhare colourway, paired with some basic black sock and size 8/0 beads.

    • Version 1 – gloves started with the beaded long tail cast-on and then twisted.
    • Version 2 – socks started with the beads randomly spaced on the knitting and then twisted.

    The other example will be my Sailors Knots Socks. In this twisted and beaded cast-on the beads are placed randomly as you knit.

    Epic Fail

    I really struggle with the technological aspects of being a small business person in our modern world of computers. Every improvement in technology requires a new learning curve. Usually it doesn’t involve the blog but…

    Yesterday I got a note that one of my posts had an error – there were two different versions, so there was a conflict. I had to pick one version. I picked wrong. SO….

    My Granny Blanket post has suffered some kind of calamity and will have to be rewritten. I will work on it this weekend. Apparently it was a “me” problem I jigged when I should have jagged! I mangaged to delete the whole thing. I somehow still have a draft version that was never finished so I will use that as a base.

    My Granny Blanket Swatch is building quite quickly though. I will be working less wedges than I thought (originally 16). I am currently thinking that 13 or 14 wedges might make the circle.

    I hope that you are having a wonderful week. With lots of knitting and no technological glitches!

    Happy Knitting

    Lynette

  • Squared Off

    Squared Off

    A square is a pretty simple shape, but it hold so many possibilities. For a knitter a square is often a nuisance, an “I told you so!” and “…really, do I have too!”

    And yes “Really you do! Or should!”

    I swatch a lot. As a designer it is really important to understand the yarn chosen, what it can and cannot do and make sure before you start that the results will be as expected. So I swatch. And I make a lot of squares to find the perfect yarn for the project in my head.

    Sometimes my swatches are not square – they are round! They are hats! Loads and loads of hats! Elizabeth Zimmermann often swatched a hat to test out a circular gauge. Someone always needs a hat! But most of my swatches are square.

    This morning I finished another swatch. This one isn’t just square. This one has dimensions, this one has “POUF!” It is a Poufy swatch for a Poufy Vest. A new Spring Class that I am developing! While knitting this swatch and thinking about the class I came up with a couple of ideas for using this particular swatch. So I have created a little pattern to go with my list of uses!

    The Gallery below might help with your process as you try one of these squares out!

    Squaring AroundDownload

    I hope that you give this a try. It has been fun and wait till you see what this is a swatch for!

    Happy Knitting

    Lynette

    These are the East Coast Mittens – don’t they look like fun. Click on the photo below for the Ravelry link.

  • A Quickie…

    A Quickie…

    A few months ago I was interviewed by Stitchmastery. Stitchmastery makes the knitting program that I use to create my charts! I was really stoked when this came out!

    Look at all those pretty lace patterns, all charts created by Stitchmastery.

    Interview series 51 – Lynette Meek – Stitchmastery

    Pattern is on Ravelry, High Summer KAL.

    I love working with striping yarns. Moving the stripes around in different ways is aways challenging. This technique is a little challenging, but great for the adventurous knitter.

    This striping yarn is Poema Stripes by Laine du Nord

    I have started a new scarf, one with a different style of cast-on. For the knitting nerds outs there – have you every knit a rectangular scarf or shawl in the round? Do you know the magic loop method? Why not give this a try?

    Basic instructions for a worsted start:

    Using a 5.0mm US#8 80cm 32in circ, and using a knitted cast-on (you know, the one with the loopy edge) 170 st. Knit 1 row. With a 150cm 60in needle of the same size, turn work so that the RS is facing with the cast-on edge on the top.

    Pro Tip – one that I forgot until I didn’t need to remember – DUH! – if you have them use a 60 in cord with the short tips – you will be knitting in the round without the rabbit ears a lot sooner (magic loop).

    Pull working yarn up and using the new, longer needle, pick-up and knit 170 sts from the cast-on edge. Pull up enough loop so that the needle can turn the corner, YO, knit 170 sts, YO, place BORM marker – 342 sts.

    I love the way the stitches make “turkey tails” as you move them along the cord.

    You will need to pull out the extra cord at each end to turn the corner for the first 10 rounds or so.

    • Round 1 – purl 170 sts, pm, yo, k1, yo, pm, purl 170 sts, pm, yo, k1, yo, slm – 346 sts.
    • Round 2 – knit 170 sts, slm, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, slm knit 170 st, slm, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, slm – 354 sts.
    • Round 3 – purl 170 st, slm, k1, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo, k1, slm, purl 170 sts, slm, k1, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo, k1 – 362 sts.
    • Round 4 – knit 170 sts, slm, k2, yo k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, yo, k2, slm, knit 170 sts, slm, k2, yo, k1, yo k5, yo, k1, yo, k2 – 370 sts.
    • Round 5 – purl all around – no increases.

    From this point increases will be every other round.

    This is as far as I have gotten. I will post more as I go.

    I will post more of the pattern tomorrow, always supposing I get more done today!

    I hope that your knitting is going well! Happy Knitting!

    Lynette

  • Jingle Gnome Chapeau Part Two

    Jingle Gnome Chapeau Part Two

    Now that the class has started there has been a request for a mitten pattern to co-ordinate with the hat! So…

    I am knitting a pair. The first mitten is complete and the second it started! There will be two sizes of mittens, small/medium (for me) and a medium/large. I am knitting the small/medium as the sample pair. UPDATE – the second mitten is finished! They practically knit themselves!

    I decided to knit the loopy cuff with two colours, grey and white. I knew that there wasn’t enough grey for a solid cuff on both mittens, and I am still not sure that even with mixing the colours that I will have enough grey to finish the mittens. I am loving the colour mix, sometimes need is the best teacher! We will see if I have saved enough of the grey to finish the mitten without purchasing more yarn.

    The pattern for both hat and mittens is basically complete – it just needs some pictures and a photo tutorial for the afterthought thumb – my favourite thumb for most colourwork mittens. This thumb is easy to knit and does not interfere with the colourwork pattern.

    The inserted sts. The guideline for the thumb placement
    Using two dpn’s pick-up 1 arm of each st above and below the inserted waste yarn.
    Starting at the center arefully cut and remove the waste yarn.
    Waste yarn is removed and the sts are ready to be knit.
    First round has been created.
    Mitten with completed thumb.

    The pattern is available on Ravelry as the Jingle Gnome Chapeau with Bonus Mittens.

    I love the vintage filter on my computer photo editing program, it really suits the mood of the Jingle Gnome Chapeau!

    Happy Knitting!

    Lynette

  • Jingle Gnome Chapeau

    Jingle Gnome Chapeau

    Sometimes when you spend a lot of time designing “serious” knits, you know, practical but attractive, maybe someone will think that they could knit and wear it items, sometimes you just need to break out of the mold and play!

    I love Christmas – I love Gnomes – so here is a little nod to both!

    Meet the Jingle Gnome Chapeau, designed for warmth, but with a little “fun” added! This is a sample for a class happening at Mad About Ewe Fine Yarns. It starts next week, Tues Oct 8 and runs over the next couple of weeks. Three classes in total.

    Class # 1 – How to knit loops – link to video – did you know that the loops can be cut and brushed to make a really soft “fur”?

    Class # 2 – Basic Stranding – simpler than fair-isle, much more repetitive, but great practice.

    Class #3 – How to make the perfect pompom, and some basic finishing – how to deal with ends.

    Jingle is knit with Eco Shetland Worsted, which is a light worsted, almost a dk, but I have knit it a few time at the worsted gauge and been very happy with the results. It has great yardage, 1 skein of each colour is all that is necessary. Plus a few jingle bells and the regular notions!

    How about that pompom, surrounded by bells? Isn’t just a dream of a finish?

    I know you want one!

    Happy Gnome “ing”

    Lynette

    PS. The pattern will be available in about 3 weeks and will include a mitten pattern to go with the Chapeau!

  • Mending 101 – Part 2

    Mending 101 – Part 2

    Mending a Ribbed Cuff – replacing the rib

    Yesterday I mended the blue sweater cuff. It took about two and a half hours, including the knitting time. Why did I wait so long? I’ve had the yarn for close to three years! Other things kept getting in the way. And I would rather knit than mend! Wouldn’t you?

    I am working on changing that attitude within myself.

    This sweater was knit in the round. Bottom up for the body, but top down for the sleeves.

    At the time, I knew my yardage was limited and I wanted to make sure that each sleeve was the same and that the yardage went as far as possible. Top-down knitting is the best way to make that happen. It worked well for this project. I finished the sweater with only a little of the main shade of blue to spare.

    The original yarn was a dk, so I decided to work the cuff with a set of 3.5mm US #4 dpn’s.

    Top-down knitting also makes it easier to mend/replace the bits that wear out, like the sleeve cuffs. Had I knit the sleeves from the cuff up I would have had to cut the knitting at the join of the cuff and very carefully retrieve my live stitches above the cuff. That will be a demonstration for another day and a different sweater!

    When working with an older sweater, the stitches will not usually run down the knitting in the same way as a garment that you are working. After a certain amount of time the yarn itself has been almost pressed into shape with folds and bends. You can see in the unraveled yarn and stitches at the end of the cuff (4th picture in the sequence) that the shape is set and unwilling to move. A bonus, one that makes the work you are trying to achieve a little easier.

    The wrist is frayed right at the beginning/end of the round. Which makes it slightly more complicated to pull back as the end has been woven in down towards the cuff.
    Scissors will be needed to cut the yarn every time it hits the woven in tail, Once the end of the knitting is found the knitting will pull back easily, except where the tail yarn has been woven into the fabric. Scissors were used to cut the knotted area and the wrist kept on unravelling.
    The end is gone and the unravelling speeds along.
    Once the knitting is pulled back to the sleeve, pull the next round out carefully, As you pull catch each stitch revealed with a dpn. Continue to pull back the last round, switching dpn’s as they are filled. Use 3 or 4 dpn’s to hold the stitches depending upon your comfort level with dpn use.
    Once all of the stitches have been picked up, cut off the old yarn leaving an 8 inch tail. Weave in the tail as you knit the first round of the new ribbed cuff.
    I had 68 sts on the needles but the cuff had been 48 sts. The sleeve had been reduced by 20 sts in the cuff. So I worked an extra round, reducing as I knit, to match the 48 sts, before starting the ribbing.

    I am very happy with the results. The new blue cuff is not perfect, but perfect enough for a sweater that was knit in 1990, 34 years ago. The neck may be the next piece that needs replacing, I noticed some wear along the back, but that is a problem for another day!

    Happy Mending

    Lynette

  • Just Another Day….

    Just Another Day….

    … In Paradise

    I woke up to the most glorious sunrise. The living room was glowing orange as the light poured in the windows. When I went out onto the deck – the run was rising in front of me and there was a rainbow forming behind me. So awe inspiring.

    The Mini Rose also produced a new bloom this morning that is absolutely perfect. The Hibiscus plant has several new buds, so many beautiful flowers. Just an amazing start to the day.

    Knitting et al.

    The GreenMan Shawl is progressing nicely. I am about 20% into the Oakleaf and Acorn insert and I am very pleased with the effect of the beads on the knitting.

    I have started another shawl for myself. I didn’t really intend on this one. I am not even designing it. If you are old enough you will remember or will have knit a Clapotis shawl. I am more than old enough.

    Clapotis can be considered one of the first viral patterns on Ravelry and has over 24000 projects listed. It was designed to be knit with some of the glorious hand dyed yarns that were appearing at that time. It has just been re-released on Ravelry as Clapotis 24. There is an accompanying KAL that features lots of yarny prizes.

    I didn’t knit it the first time around, so I am giving it a go with some yarn from my stash. Not hand dyed, but striping and lively, and I was not having any luck designing a sweater for myself with it. I had already ripped back a couple of attempts. The yarn is Lang Cloud Tweed.

    Clapotis is designed for a worsted/aran weight yarn (I keep seeing it in some Rios), but is very easy to adjust for almost any weight! The knitting is basic, stockinette on a diagonal, but the addition of the dropped line of stitches keeps it interesting.

    Have you knit a Clapotis?

    I am also working on another class project. Remember the loopy st? Meet the Jingle Gnome Chapeau. Still under construction, but already looking like a little bit of rustic “happy”! The class will feature the loop stitch, basic stranded knitting and how to make the perfect pompom! I am working with the Eco Shetland Worsted by Estelle. It is yarn that I really like to work with and gives me great results.

    Boho Cozy
    Boho Mitts
    Boho Crown

    I hope that you have a wonderful day. Mine is off to a great start!

    Happy Knitting

    Lynette

  • Circular Cast-ons

    Circular Cast-ons

    My favourite cast-on is the Emily Ocker Cast-on, also called the German Pinhole Cast-on.

    Do to technical difficulties I am going submit a short video and then a series of photo’s on how to start the GreenMan Shawl.

    Tools that will make the cast-on easier; a straight crochet hook or a hook/point tool, it simplifies the moving of the sts from the hook to the needles. Wooden or other lightweight dpn’s, they are a little sticky and very light, metal needles are usually quite heavy and slide out far too quickly.

    If you have never held a crochet hook I can recommend a simple cast-on;

    Cast-on 6 sts to a single dpn, transfer the sts as the photo tutorial below, join into a round and start to work the shawl. The center of the shawl will not be as neat to begin with but when finishing your shawl the tail can be used to gather up and gently close the hole in the center.

    In the video you will see the yarn, tail to the right and underneath the working end of the yarn. There is no sound, but the written description is below the video.

    Please note: I am not a confident crocheter and you will see that in the video. But that does not mean I can’t fumble my way through a single crochet.

    Emily Ocker Cast-on also called German Pinhole Cast-on

    Grasp the ring where the yarn crosses

    • with your hook go through the ring and hook a loop of the working yarn
    • pull through the ring
    • hook the working yarn again and pull through the loop already on hook.
    • I single crochet is on the loop

    Repeat from the top five more times until there are 6 loops on the hook.

    Below is the step by step set-up and first rounds of the shawl.

    6 single crochets on the hook
    Slide the stiches to the end of the hook
    Divide the stitches onto 3 dpn’s, 2 sts per needle
    Pull the tail to tighten the loop
    Work the 1st set-up round, *YO, K1; repeat from * 6 times – 12 sts.
    Work 2nd set-up round – K12.
    Work 1st round from charted or written instructions ; Double YO, K2tog, 6 times – 18 sts.
    Work 2nd round of charted or written instructions – K1, P1, (K2, P1) 5 times, K1 – 18 sts.

    Once you reach this point the needles will start to co-operate and the knitting will go more smoothly.

    I hope that this helps you start your shawl.

    I am hoping to make the video as promised with sound and moving pictures – perhaps tomorrow. Getting my tools to co-operate has been a challenge.

    Happy Knitting

    Lynette

  • Play Time

    Play Time

    Christmas is Coming

    Have you noticed that we knitters, and almost all crafters, start thinking of Christmas a lot earlier Than other people? I think that we need to as most of our gifts take time, sometimes a lot of time to create.

    So today I am sharing a fun technique – Loop Knitting – a little playful technique to add to your skills for the upcoming knitting blitz!

    Loop knitting is basically making a series of knotted loops on the right side of the knitting. These loops can be made and left as loops, my current thought, or they can be made, cut open and brushed up to look like fur, a thought under consideration! Loops are not a quick technique, but the results are worth the effort.

    Bring your yarn through the stitch on the needle as if to knit, but do not drop the stitch from the LH needle
    Bring your yarn forward and over your left thumb
    Wrap the yarn tightly around your thumb and take it back between the needles
    Insert the RH needle tip into the loop on the LH needle as if to knit the stitch
    Knit the stitch and remove from LH needle, remove thumb from the loop
    Pull the loop to set in place (don’t pull too tightly), bring working yarn forward and over the needle
    With the LH needle tip, pick up the two “stitches” from making the loop and lift them over the yarn sitting on the needle
    The knot is closed and a new stitch is created from the three loops on the needle

    Loops need to made on the RS of the knitting surface. If you are knitting back and forth the loops can be make every other row. When working in the round as I am, the loops can be worked on every round. I want a fairly thick, loopy surface.

    The loops can be made in every stitch for a very full look. I am making my loops every other stitch and off setting them on every other row, for a medium thick appearance.

    Loop knitting is playful and offers some interesting options for hatbands and mitten cuffs. Right now I am working on a hatband. I am planning to knit a swatch and cut and brush out the loops – I am really intrigued by the concept of being able to create the look of “faux fur”!

    When starting loop knitting the going will be slow at first. It may take a round or two to develop a rhythm, but each successive round gets quicker than the one before!

    I know that this technique would work well for toy knitting. Remember Lamb Chop? I have made a few things over the years with loops on the edges. I think I will try a few more.

    Koigu Entrelac gloves from 2016

    I hope that you feel inspired to give loop knitting a try!

    Happy Knitting

    Lynette

  • Thumbs UP!

    Thumbs UP!

    I have been knitting a lot of full mittens lately (as opposed to the fingerless variety). They seem to be my gift of choice is this year. They are fun and quick and are great vehicles for learning new techniques – they are sort of like hats that way.

    Adding the thumb is the only really fiddley bit. The most popular thumb is the fully shaped gusset with thumb. They are the classic thumb for mittens, but my favourite thumb is the afterthought thumb.

    Why the afterthought thumb? Well, it is especially great with patterned mittens, colourwork, texture or cable techniques. Why is it better? I am so happy you asked! LOL! The best and strongest reason is that an afterthought thumb (or afterthought heel) will not interrupt your patterning. Or does not require a special pattern separate from the rest of the mitten – though it can be a great vehicle for more patterning. Afterthought thumbs are usually added after the mitten body is finished and then worked in the main colour yarn in stockinette – making them an easy finish.

    How about a step-by-step tutorial?

    Technique 1

    I love this one for almost everything! But especially textural patterns in any weight. See Boldly Tweed Set.

    1. first work in pattern to the thumb insertion point; drop the working yarn and pick-up a length of waste yarn and work the desired number of stitches for the thumb as per the pattern size
    2. slip the waste yarn sts from the RH needle back to the LH needle; now resume working the pattern – knitting over the waste yarn insertion – with the mitten yarn and ignore the waste yarn until the mitten body is complete.
    Using a smaller needle size pick-up 1/2 of the stitch above and below the waste yarn insertion.
    Carefully clip the waste yarn stitches and remove the waste yarn
    Stitches are sitting free on the needles – they can look a little messy until knitted.
    Knit the first round as follows (dividing the sts onto the dpn’s; working with the correct size dpn’s and starting at either corner pick-up and-knit 1 stitch, knit across the needle to the next divide, pick-up and knit 2 sts across the divide, knit the sts across the next needle, pick-up and knit 1 st – end of round – round count is double the sts of the waste yarn plus 4 – in the sample above
    8 sts + 8 sts = 16 sts + 4 sts = 20 sts.

    Work next round of thumb as follows; K2tog, knit to 1 st before next divide, SSK, K2tog, knit to 1 st before next divide, SSK – thumb is now ready to complete as pattern requires.

    Technique 2

    I use this one mostly with heavier yarns. I find it easier to work than the other method.

    1. Knit to thumb insertion point, place required sts onto some waste yarn (cable needle in picture – it was handy and the mittens were fast LOL!.
    2. Backwards loop same amount of sts as are on the waste yarn, continue knitting the mitten.
    Mitten is knit and the sts ready to be picked up.
    Stitches are picked up and waiting to be knit. Work the 1 st and 2nd round as above.
    My Grandson’s Christmas Mittens – Jester Mittens and the Monster Mittens

    There will probably be patterns for these mittens – just not sure when!

    Happy Mitten Knitting, Be Well!

    Lynette